Post by ClockyPost by OzixPost by ClockyThose could be factors but if it drove fine it was probably just an
injector issue. If you had already replaced the injectors with those
cheap ebay ones sets then that was most certainly the problem as
their flow characteristics are completely random and shithouse.
The old workhorse might last
Post by Ozixforever, just gets less efficient when you hang on to it too long.
My old VR Commodore had over 500,000km on the original running gear
and was still using 12L/100km stop/start and about 9L/100 in the
highway. It would still be getting that if it weren't for some clown
in a Navara pulling out in front of me and writing it off.
I had changed injectors about 2 years earlier. Generally if one starts
pissing fuel,
They don't have to "piss" fuel.
Indeed. If the injectors "piss" fuel, it would indicate they are stuck
open and that will, among other things, fill the sump with petrol.
FWIW, a pissing injector, ie. one that isn't giving a proper spray
pattern, will cause lots of incomplete combustion and send scads of fuel
down the exhaust to the Cat. That fuel will combust in the cat and
overheat it, one dead cat. Ergo, such a situation will trigger a
shitload of emission codes, hopefully long before that happens. And
you'll get ring wash which ensures a short ring life. Might even get
piston and bore scuffing.
In my experience, injectors typically get gummed shut and this occurs
most often when cold. As they warm up, expansion loosens matters and
they free up - until the next cold start. Had that precise situation on
my previous Corolla though I detected the misfire *by ear* immediately
after a cold start. Didn't occur on a hot start. Since the cat was in
open loop, no emissions codes were triggered.
Injectors also gum up at the nozzle. This can provide a restriction to
flow so that *less* fuel than demanded is injected. That will set up
enrichment of all injectors on that bank, if not the entire engine.
When checking fuel pressure regulators, it is necessary to check that
fuel pressure varies appropriately with MAP - and that is easily checked
with a gauge.
Post by Clocky you get error codes for left-right imbalance on exhaust
Post by Ozixsensors. And I had changed the exhaust sensors, MAF sensor, fuel
pressure regulator, DFI coils all sorts of stuff that might affect
fuel consumption.
Sounds like the typical *parts cannon* treatment. All the above bits can
and should be *tested* for correct operation and not just assumed to be
faulty - *before replacement*.
Post by ClockyBefore you do any of that I hope you checked compression. What were the
readings?
Yup, compression readings for sure. If the engine is down on compression
it will have lost *efficiency* and burn more fuel to do the same job.
Vacuum readings are a good indicator of low compressions also, as are
cylinder leakdown tests.
--
Xeno
Nothing astonishes Noddy so much as common sense and plain dealing.
(with apologies to Ralph Waldo Emerson)