Discussion:
Start your car with a drill battery
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Mighty Mouse
2024-10-07 05:02:40 UTC
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https://www.instagram.com/p/C_qbZG2PAQb/
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Keithr0
2024-10-07 06:50:24 UTC
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Post by Mighty Mouse
https://www.instagram.com/p/C_qbZG2PAQb/
What a dickhead, he didn't even think to put a piece of cardboard or
some other insulator between the clips, a couple of millimetres over and
he'd have had a nice big bang and a fire. Not to mention what it does to
the drill battery, probably no good at all. OK in an emergency if
nothing else is available but not more than that.
Xeno
2024-10-07 07:31:49 UTC
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Post by Keithr0
Post by Mighty Mouse
https://www.instagram.com/p/C_qbZG2PAQb/
What a dickhead, he didn't even think to put a piece of cardboard or
some other insulator between the clips, a couple of millimetres over and
he'd have had a nice big bang and a fire. Not to mention what it does to
the drill battery, probably no good at all. OK in an emergency if
Technically shouldn't have worked, the batteries have current limiting
cutouts built in. Even my jump starter has an overload cutout built into it.
Post by Keithr0
nothing else is available but not more than that.
I keep a *fit for purpose* jump starter in the car for such occasions.
--
Xeno


Nothing astonishes Noddy so much as common sense and plain dealing.
(with apologies to Ralph Waldo Emerson)
Xeno
2024-10-07 07:18:50 UTC
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Post by Mighty Mouse
https://www.instagram.com/p/C_qbZG2PAQb/
I use a jump starter pack for that sort of thing. You realise a starter
requires a current of in excess of 100 Amps - typically 150 to 250 Amps,
and up to 600 Amps for one of these big diesel utes. And that is steady
state, not allowing for any inrush current. Car batteries and jumper
packs are designed to cope with such current draws, those L-Ion tool
batteries, not so much. Apart from anything else, those power tool
battery packs should have an *in-built* overload current cut-out that
limits current to something like a maximum of 30 Amps. What's more, they
will also have an over-discharge cutout as well to prevent them from
fully discharging.
Note, those battery packs typically have a bunch of L-Ion cells of 1.8V
each connected in series or, depending on capacity requirements, a
series/parallel combination. Now, all my battery packs here are either
18V or 20V so I would never be plugging them into my car anyway. Yes,
car 12V electrical system voltages can run up to 18V in high current
charging situations so, in theory, I shouldn't be zapping any car
electronics - but I'd rather not test the theory. As an aside, the 18V
Ryobi battery packs have 21V when fully charged, 14V when discharged.
The cells in the tool batteries are typically 18650 cells and these have
a maximum continuous discharge rate of 20 Amps. To get 18V you would
need 5 cells in series. I would presume my 2AH batteries are wired this
way. Since they are in series, the current limit is *still* 20 Amps. If
I wanted to double the capacity to 4AH, I would need to add another
bunch of 5 series connected cells and add them in parallel to the
existing. Explains why my 4AH battery packs are double the depth of the
2AH packs. But that would be still only amount to a total of 40 Amps
continuous - 20 Amps from each group of 5 series connected cells - and
way short of the 150V+ required to jump start a car with a flat battery.
I seem to recall seeing somewhere that my 18V battery packs have an
overload cutout set at 30 Amps but there's nowt on the Ryobi website.
There is the linked pic below which indicates I'm correct on the
series/parallel battery connection arrangement and shows the circuit
board that carries the cutouts and charging circuitry.

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Bottom line, I'm not convinced a tool battery pack will jump start a car
with a dead flat battery and I am sure that any current draw above the
cutout limit will be restricted. I can just imagine one of those 18650
cells going into meltdown with 100 Amps passing through it!
--
Xeno


Nothing astonishes Noddy so much as common sense and plain dealing.
(with apologies to Ralph Waldo Emerson)
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